Sump Pump Not Working: What to Do Right Now

Last updated: April 2026

By the Plumbing Price Guide Team

A sump pump that stops working during rain or flooding is one of the most stressful plumbing emergencies a homeowner can face. Water is rising in the basement, the pump is silent, and every minute matters. The first step is to check the power supply, because a tripped GFCI outlet or breaker is the most common reason a sump pump stops running, and it takes 30 seconds to fix. If you are dealing with active flooding and the pump will not restart, call a plumber now at (641) 637-5215. This guide covers exactly how to troubleshoot a sump pump that is not working, what the common failure points are, what it costs to repair or replace, and how to protect your basement while you wait for help.

For detailed sump pump pricing, see our sump pump cost guide. For general emergency plumbing rates, see emergency plumber costs. If you are unsure whether your situation requires an emergency call, our plumbing emergency guide can help you decide.

Immediate Troubleshooting Steps When Your Sump Pump Stops

Before assuming the pump has failed and needs replacement, work through these five checks in order. Many sump pump failures have a simple cause that homeowners can resolve in minutes. The key is to stay methodical and not skip steps, because the most obvious cause (a power interruption) is also the most common.

The Most Common Sump Pump Failure Points

Understanding what typically goes wrong with sump pumps helps you diagnose the problem faster and communicate more clearly with a plumber when you call. Sump pumps are relatively simple machines with a limited number of components that can fail. Here are the four most common failure points, listed from most frequent to least frequent.

Float Switch Failure

The float switch is the most failure-prone component in any sump pump system. Tethered float switches (the kind that hang on a short cord from the pump) are especially prone to tangling on the discharge pipe or getting wedged against the side of the pit. Vertical float switches, which slide up and down on a rod, are more reliable but can still get stuck if debris accumulates on the rod. Electronic float switches have no moving parts and are the most reliable, but they cost more and are only found on higher-end pumps.

Symptoms: The pit fills with water but the pump does not turn on. If you manually lift the float, the pump activates and works normally. Or the pump runs continuously and will not shut off, meaning the float is stuck in the "on" position.

Motor Burnout

Sump pump motors can burn out from age, overuse, or running dry. A pump that cycles on and off too frequently (short cycling) puts excessive stress on the motor. Running dry, which can happen if the float switch activates the pump before enough water has accumulated, generates heat that damages the motor windings. Motors typically last 7 to 10 years under normal use, but pumps in high-water-table areas that run multiple times per hour during wet seasons may only last 4 to 6 years.

Symptoms: The pump makes no sound at all when the float switch is activated. The breaker may trip repeatedly. You may notice a burning smell coming from the pump or the pit area. A humming sound without water movement usually indicates a seized impeller rather than a burned motor.

Impeller Problems

The impeller is the rotating component inside the pump that creates suction and moves water through the discharge pipe. Small stones, sand, or debris that pass through the inlet screen can jam or damage the impeller. A partially blocked impeller will run but move water very slowly. A completely jammed impeller will cause the motor to hum loudly and draw excessive current, eventually tripping the breaker or burning out the motor.

Symptoms: The pump motor hums or buzzes but does not move water, or moves water very slowly compared to its normal output. The motor may feel unusually hot to the touch. You may hear grinding or rattling sounds coming from inside the pump housing.

Power Supply Issues

Power interruptions are technically not a pump failure, but they account for more sump pump "outages" than actual mechanical failures. A tripped GFCI outlet, a tripped breaker, a loose plug, or a full power outage during a storm will all render the pump inoperative. This is especially dangerous because heavy storms, which are exactly when you need the pump most, are also when power outages are most likely. A sump pump without a battery backup is completely dependent on grid power.

Symptoms: The pump makes no sound and shows no signs of power. Other outlets on the same circuit may also be dead. The GFCI outlet shows a tripped indicator. The breaker in the panel is in the middle position (tripped) rather than fully on.

How to Diagnose Each Sump Pump Problem

Once you have identified which component might be causing the failure, use these diagnostic steps to confirm the issue before calling a plumber. Accurate diagnosis saves time and money, because you can tell the plumber exactly what is happening and they can arrive prepared with the right parts.

Diagnosing a Float Switch Problem

Unplug the pump from the outlet. Reach into the pit and move the float switch through its full range of motion. Does it move freely, or does it catch on something? Look at the position of the float relative to the discharge pipe and pit walls. There should be at least two inches of clearance on all sides. If the float is a tethered type (hanging on a cord), make sure the cord is not wrapped around the discharge pipe. Plug the pump back in and slowly pour water into the pit from a five-gallon bucket. Watch the float as the water rises. It should rise smoothly with the water level and trigger the pump when it reaches the activation height. If the float rises but the pump does not activate, the switch mechanism inside the float has failed and the float assembly needs replacement.

Diagnosing a Motor Problem

With the pump plugged in and the float switch in the activated (raised) position, listen carefully. Complete silence means the motor is dead, the capacitor has failed, or there is no power reaching the motor. A loud hum without any water movement means the motor has power but the impeller is not spinning, which could be a seized impeller or a failed motor bearing. If the motor starts and then quickly shuts off, the thermal overload protector may be tripping due to overheating. Let the motor cool for 30 minutes and try again. If it keeps tripping, the motor is failing.

To confirm power is reaching the pump, try plugging the pump into a different outlet using an extension cord (as a temporary diagnostic step only, not as a permanent solution). If the pump works on a different outlet, the problem is the outlet or circuit, not the pump.

Diagnosing a Discharge Line Problem

If the pump motor runs and you can hear it working, but the water level in the pit does not drop (or drops very slowly and then rises again), the discharge line is likely blocked or the check valve has failed. The check valve is a one-way valve installed on the discharge pipe above the pump. Its job is to prevent water in the pipe from flowing back into the pit when the pump shuts off. A failed check valve allows water to drain back into the pit after each pump cycle, causing the pump to run repeatedly without making progress.

To test for a bad check valve, watch the water level in the pit immediately after the pump shuts off. If the water level rises noticeably within a few seconds, the check valve is not holding. Check valve replacement costs $100 to $250 with professional installation. For a blocked discharge pipe, disconnect the pipe at the check valve (with the pump unplugged) and look through it with a flashlight. You can also run a garden hose into the pipe to check for flow.

Diagnosing Debris Problems

Unplug the pump and remove it from the pit if possible. Sump pumps are typically connected only by a plug and the discharge pipe, making removal straightforward once the discharge is disconnected. Inspect the bottom of the pump for the inlet screen. Clear away any debris, gravel, or sediment. If you can access the impeller housing, check for jammed stones or debris. Some pumps have a removable bottom plate for this purpose. While the pump is out, clean the sump pit itself. Remove accumulated sediment from the bottom and check that the pit liner (if installed) is intact.

Emergency Backup Options While Waiting for a Plumber

If your sump pump has failed and water is rising in your basement, you need to manage the water while you wait for professional help. The goal is to slow the rate of flooding and protect valuable items and structural elements. Here are the most effective temporary solutions, listed from most to least practical.

Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum

A wet/dry shop vacuum (commonly called a Shop-Vac) is the most accessible emergency water removal tool most homeowners already own. A standard 10 to 16 gallon unit can move water quickly in short bursts, though you will need to empty it frequently. Position the vacuum at the lowest point in the basement and run the discharge hose to a floor drain, laundry tub, or out a window. Some shop vacuums have a continuous drain feature that allows you to attach a garden hose to the rear port, eliminating the need to stop and empty the tank.

Portable Utility Pump

A portable utility pump (sometimes called a transfer pump) is a small submersible pump that connects to a standard garden hose. These are available at hardware stores for $50 to $150 and can move 1,500 to 3,000 gallons per hour, which is comparable to many permanent sump pumps. Drop it into the sump pit or the lowest point of standing water, connect a garden hose, run the hose outside, and plug it in. If you live in an area prone to heavy rain or flooding, keeping a utility pump on hand is a worthwhile investment.

Generator Power

If the sump pump failure is caused by a power outage, a portable generator can power the pump directly. Most sump pumps draw between 800 and 1,500 watts, so even a small generator in the 2,000 to 3,500 watt range will work. Run the extension cord from the generator (placed outside, never inside the house or garage due to carbon monoxide risk) to the sump pump outlet. Make sure the cord is rated for the pump's amperage. A 12-gauge extension cord is adequate for most residential sump pumps if the cord length is under 50 feet.

Manual Water Removal

If you have no power and no generator, manual methods are your only option. Use buckets to bail water from the sump pit and carry it outside or to a working drain. This is labor-intensive but can keep up with slow seepage. If the water level is above the sump pit and spreading across the basement floor, use a push broom or floor squeegee to direct water toward the pit or a floor drain. A garden hose can be used as a siphon if you can run it to a point lower than the basement floor (a window well or downhill exterior point), though this requires priming the hose and maintaining the elevation difference.

Protecting Your Basement From Water Damage

While you work on the pump or wait for a plumber, take these steps to minimize the damage water can do to your basement and belongings. The cost of water damage remediation far exceeds the cost of any sump pump repair, so every minute spent on mitigation is worthwhile.

Move Items Off the Floor Immediately

Get anything valuable, irreplaceable, or damageable off the basement floor. Electronics, documents, photo albums, stored clothing, and furniture should be moved to upper shelves, tables, or upstairs. Cardboard boxes sitting on the floor will absorb water and collapse within minutes, destroying their contents. Even a half inch of standing water can ruin carpet, laminate flooring, drywall (if it reaches the bottom of the walls), and anything stored at floor level.

Document the Damage

Before you start cleaning up, take photos and video of the water level, the affected areas, and any damaged items. This documentation is critical for insurance claims. Take wide shots of the overall scene and close-ups of specific damage. Note the date and time. If the water level is still rising, take periodic photos showing the progression. Insurance adjusters will want to see evidence of the event, the extent of the damage, and proof that you took reasonable steps to mitigate further damage.

Address Electrical Safety

If water is approaching or has reached electrical outlets, power strips, or appliances, turn off the breakers for those circuits at the electrical panel. Do not walk through standing water to unplug items if the water could be in contact with live electrical connections. If your electrical panel is in the basement and the water is rising toward it, call your utility company for guidance. Standing water in contact with live electrical wiring creates a serious electrocution risk.

Start Drying As Soon As Water Recedes

Once the water is under control, start the drying process immediately. Mold can begin growing within 24 to 48 hours in a damp environment. Open windows if outdoor humidity is lower than indoor humidity. Run fans to circulate air. A dehumidifier is the most effective tool for drying a basement after flooding. If you do not own one, rent a commercial-grade dehumidifier from a hardware or equipment rental store. Remove any wet carpet, carpet padding, and drywall insulation that was submerged. Carpet padding in particular will hold moisture indefinitely and must be replaced if it gets wet.

When to Call an Emergency Plumber vs. When to Wait

Not every sump pump failure requires an emergency service call. Emergency plumber rates run $150 to $300 per hour, compared to $75 to $150 per hour during normal business hours (see our plumber cost per hour guide). Knowing when the situation is truly urgent and when it can wait a few hours or until the next business day can save you hundreds of dollars. For more on this decision, see our guide on when to call a plumber.

Call an Emergency Plumber If:

• Water is actively flooding your basement and you cannot stop or slow it
• The water level is rising toward electrical outlets, the breaker panel, or your furnace and HVAC system
• You have a finished basement with drywall, carpet, or valuables that will be destroyed within hours
• The sump pump is the only thing preventing your basement from flooding (no other drains or exits for water) and it is raining heavily with no sign of stopping
• You smell sewage, which could indicate the sewer line is backing up through the sump pit
• You have already tried all troubleshooting steps and cannot get the pump to work

You Can Likely Wait If:

• The rain has stopped and water has stopped entering the pit
• You have a battery backup sump pump that is currently handling the load
• The water level is stable and not rising, even with the pump off
• You have an unfinished basement with a concrete floor and no valuables at risk
• You can manage the water with a shop vacuum or utility pump until morning
• The issue is clearly a tripped GFCI or breaker that you have already resolved

If you are unsure, call a plumber at (641) 637-5215 and describe the situation. A reputable plumber will tell you honestly whether you need immediate service or can schedule a regular appointment. For general guidance on plumbing emergencies, see our plumbing emergency guide.

Sump Pump Repair Costs by Issue

The cost to repair a sump pump varies significantly depending on what is wrong. Some repairs are minor and take less than an hour. Others are complex enough that replacement makes more financial sense than repair. Here is a breakdown of common sump pump repairs and what they typically cost with professional installation. For broader plumbing pricing context, see our plumbing cost guide.

Most sump pump repairs fall in the $100 to $300 range during regular business hours. The service call fee (typically $50 to $150) is usually included in the total labor cost. Emergency and after-hours repairs will add $100 to $200 to the total cost due to the higher hourly rate. For more on what plumbers charge, see our plumber cost per hour breakdown.

A useful rule of thumb: if the repair cost exceeds 50 percent of the cost of a new pump (including installation), replacement is usually the better investment, especially if the pump is more than 5 years old. A new pump comes with a warranty, a fresh motor, and updated components.

Sump Pump Replacement: Costs and Types

If your sump pump is beyond repair, or if repair does not make financial sense given the age and condition of the unit, replacement is the next step. The total cost depends on the type of pump, the condition of the existing sump pit, and whether any additional work is needed (such as a new discharge line or pit liner). See our sump pump cost guide for a detailed cost breakdown.

Pedestal Sump Pump ($60 to $200 for the unit)

Pedestal sump pumps have the motor mounted above the pit on a long shaft, with only the impeller assembly submerged. They are less expensive, easier to service, and tend to last longer than submersible pumps (often 15 to 25 years) because the motor stays dry. However, they are noisier, less powerful, and take up more visible space. They are best suited for smaller pits (less than 14 inches in diameter) where a submersible pump would not fit. Total installed cost for a pedestal pump is $200 to $500.

Submersible Sump Pump ($100 to $400 for the unit)

Submersible sump pumps sit entirely inside the sump pit, with the motor sealed in a waterproof housing. They are quieter, more powerful, and can handle larger volumes of water than pedestal pumps. The tradeoff is a shorter lifespan (7 to 10 years) because the motor operates in a wet environment, even with waterproof sealing. Submersible pumps are the most common type in residential installations. Total installed cost for a submersible pump is $400 to $1,000.

Combination Pump (Primary + Battery Backup)

Combination systems include a primary submersible pump and a battery backup pump in a single integrated unit. The backup pump activates automatically if the primary pump fails or if the power goes out. These systems cost $500 to $1,200 for the unit and $300 to $500 for installation, for a total of $800 to $1,500 installed. For homeowners who have experienced a pump failure during a storm, the peace of mind alone makes this a compelling option.

Water-Powered Backup Pump

Water-powered backup pumps use municipal water pressure to create suction and remove water from the sump pit. They require no electricity or batteries and will run as long as the municipal water supply is functioning. The downside is that they use one gallon of municipal water for every two gallons pumped out, which can increase your water bill during extended use. They also require a minimum water pressure of 40 PSI to function. Installation cost is $300 to $600. These are a good secondary backup in addition to a battery backup system.

When comparing options, consider the full picture: a $150 pedestal pump that fails in a storm and causes $15,000 in water damage is far more expensive than a $1,200 combination system with battery backup that keeps your basement dry. The right pump for your situation depends on your water table level, how often the pump runs, whether you have a finished basement, and your area's frequency of power outages. A plumber can assess your specific situation. Call (641) 637-5215 for a local assessment.

Why a Battery Backup Sump Pump Is Worth the Investment

A battery backup sump pump is, in many ways, the most important component of a complete sump pump system. The reason is straightforward: the situations that produce the most water (heavy storms, extended rain events, rapid snowmelt) are the same situations most likely to cause power outages. A primary sump pump without a backup is only as reliable as your electrical grid.

What a Battery Backup Does

A battery backup sump pump is a secondary pump powered by a deep-cycle marine battery or a maintenance-free AGM battery. It monitors the water level in the pit independently from the primary pump. If the water rises above the primary pump's activation point (because the primary pump has failed or lost power), the backup pump turns on automatically. Most battery backup systems can run for 6 to 12 hours of intermittent pumping on a full charge, depending on the battery capacity and how much water needs to be moved.

The Cost-Benefit Calculation

A battery backup sump pump system costs $200 to $600 for the unit and $150 to $300 for professional installation. The battery itself needs replacement every 3 to 5 years at a cost of $75 to $200. Over a 10-year period, the total cost of ownership is roughly $700 to $1,500. Compare that to the average cost of a single basement flooding event: water extraction and drying runs $1,500 to $5,000, damaged flooring replacement runs $2,000 to $8,000, drywall replacement runs $1,000 to $4,000, and mold remediation (if drying is delayed) runs $1,500 to $9,000. A single flood event can easily total $10,000 to $30,000 or more in a finished basement.

Who Needs a Battery Backup Most

Homeowners with finished basements (carpet, drywall, home offices, media rooms) have the most to lose from a sump pump failure. Homes in areas with a high water table, where the sump pump runs frequently, face higher risk because the pump is under constant stress. Areas prone to severe storms with power outages add another layer of risk. If any of these describe your situation, a battery backup is not optional; it is a necessary part of protecting your home.

Many homeowners install a battery backup after their first flood. The better approach is to install one before it happens. The cost is modest relative to the damage it prevents, and the installation is straightforward for any plumber. Most installs take 1 to 3 hours.

Insurance Coverage for Sump Pump Failure and Basement Flooding

One of the most common and costly misconceptions homeowners have is that their homeowner insurance policy covers basement flooding from a sump pump failure. In most cases, it does not. Understanding what is and is not covered before an event happens can save you from a devastating surprise during an already stressful situation.

What Standard Homeowner Insurance Typically Covers

Standard homeowner insurance policies cover water damage from sudden and accidental events inside the home, such as a burst pipe or a failed appliance. They generally do not cover flooding from external water sources (groundwater, rising water tables, overland flooding) or sewer backup. A sump pump failure that allows groundwater to flood the basement falls into the "groundwater" category, which is excluded from most standard policies.

Sump Pump Failure Endorsement (Water Backup Rider)

Most major insurance carriers offer an optional endorsement (sometimes called a "water backup rider" or "sump pump failure endorsement") that specifically covers damage caused by sump pump failure, drain backup, or sewer backup. This endorsement typically costs $40 to $120 per year and provides $5,000 to $25,000 in coverage, depending on the policy limits you select. Some policies offer up to $50,000 in coverage for a higher premium.

If you have a sump pump, this endorsement is one of the most cost-effective insurance additions you can make. The annual premium is a fraction of the potential damage cost. Contact your insurance agent to verify whether you have this coverage and what the limits are. If you do not have it, add it before the next storm season.

Filing a Claim After a Sump Pump Flood

If your sump pump fails and your basement floods, and you have the appropriate coverage, take these steps for your claim. Document everything with photos and video before cleanup begins. Keep a written log of the event (when you noticed the problem, what steps you took, when you called for help). Save receipts for any emergency expenses (plumber, pump rental, water extraction, dehumidifier rental). Contact your insurance company as soon as reasonably possible. Most policies require "prompt" notification. Do not discard damaged items until the adjuster has seen them or has given you permission to dispose of them.

Sump Pump Preventive Maintenance Checklist

The overwhelming majority of sump pump failures are preventable with basic maintenance. A sump pump is a mechanical device that sits in a wet pit collecting debris for years at a time. Without periodic attention, failure is not a matter of "if" but "when." The following maintenance schedule takes less than 30 minutes per quarter and can add years to your pump's lifespan. For a complete home plumbing maintenance schedule, see our plumbing maintenance checklist.

Every 3 Months

• Test the pump. Pour a five-gallon bucket of water slowly into the sump pit. The pump should activate automatically, pump out the water, and shut off. If it does not, troubleshoot using the steps earlier in this guide.
• Check the GFCI outlet. Press the "test" button to verify the outlet trips, then press "reset" to restore power. A GFCI that does not trip when tested needs replacement.
• Inspect the discharge line exit. Walk outside and make sure the discharge pipe opening is clear of debris, dirt, and obstructions. In winter, check for ice buildup.

Every 6 Months

• Clean the pump inlet screen. Unplug the pump, remove it from the pit if accessible, and clean the screen where water enters the pump housing. Remove any buildup of sediment, gravel, or debris.
• Clean the sump pit. Remove accumulated sediment, gravel, and debris from the bottom of the pit. A small amount of sediment is normal, but more than an inch of buildup should be removed.
• Inspect the check valve. Look at the check valve on the discharge pipe above the pump. Make sure the arrow on the valve points upward (in the direction of water flow). Listen for water flowing back into the pit after the pump shuts off, which indicates a failing check valve.
• Test the float switch manually. Move it through its full range and verify it moves freely without catching on anything.

Annually

• Test the battery backup. Unplug the primary pump and pour water into the pit to trigger the backup. Verify that the backup pump activates and pumps water effectively. Replace the battery if it is more than 3 years old or if the backup pump runs noticeably slower than it did when new.
• Run a full volume test. Use a garden hose to fill the pit quickly and observe how the pump handles a high volume of water. It should activate promptly and drain the pit within seconds. Slow drainage could indicate a worn impeller, a partially blocked discharge line, or a weakening motor.
• Inspect the discharge line for damage. Check the entire run of the discharge pipe from the pump to the exterior exit for cracks, leaks, separations, or sagging sections that could collect water and freeze in winter.

If you would rather have a professional handle maintenance, most plumbers offer annual sump pump inspection and maintenance service for $75 to $200. This typically includes cleaning the pit, testing the pump and backup, inspecting the discharge line, and checking all electrical connections. For help finding a qualified plumber for regular maintenance, see our guide to finding a good plumber. You can also use our plumbing diagnostic tool to assess your situation, or estimate total costs with our plumbing cost calculator.

Frequently Asked Questions: Sump Pump Not Working