Plumbing Emergency: What to Do Right Now
Last updated: March 2026
If you have a plumbing emergency right now, this guide tells you exactly what to do step by step. Find your situation below, follow the instructions, and call a licensed plumber when ready.
10 Plumbing Emergencies: What to Do Step by Step
1. Burst Pipe or Major Water Leak
A burst pipe can release hundreds of gallons of water per hour, causing severe structural damage to floors, walls, and ceilings. Even a small crack in a pressurized pipe can produce a significant stream of water that causes thousands of dollars in damage within minutes.
Do this right now:
- Shut off the main water supply. Locate the main shut-off valve (usually near the water meter, in the basement, or crawl space) and turn it clockwise until it stops.
- Turn off the water heater. With the main water off, an empty water heater that continues to heat can crack or overheat. Turn the gas valve to "off" for gas heaters, or flip the breaker for electric heaters.
- Turn off electricity to the affected area. If water is near outlets, light fixtures, or the electrical panel, turn off the breaker for that zone. Do not stand in water while touching the breaker panel.
- Open faucets to drain remaining water. This relieves pressure in the pipes and stops additional water from leaking through the break.
- Remove standing water. Use towels, a wet/dry vacuum, or a mop to remove as much water as possible. Move furniture and valuables away from the affected area.
- Document the damage for insurance. Take photos and video of the water damage, the burst section of pipe, and any damaged belongings before cleanup.
- Attempt to patch the pipe with tape, epoxy, or clamps as a permanent fix. These are temporary and will fail under pressure.
- Turn the water back on before a plumber inspects and repairs the break.
- Ignore a "small" leak. A small leak under pressure can become a burst pipe within hours.
- Delay shutting off the water to "see if it stops." It will not stop on its own.
What to tell the plumber when you call: The location of the burst (which room, which wall or ceiling, basement or crawl space), the pipe material if known (copper, PVC, galvanized, PEX), whether the water is shut off, how long the pipe was leaking before you stopped it, and the approximate amount of water damage.
2. Sewer Backup
Urgency: CRITICAL. A sewer backup pushes raw sewage into your home through drains, toilets, and tubs. This creates an immediate health hazard from bacteria, viruses, and toxic gases. Sewage can also cause extensive damage to flooring, drywall, and personal belongings.
Do this right now:
- Stop using all water in the house immediately. Do not flush toilets, run sinks, or use the washing machine. Any water you add to the system will push more sewage into your home.
- Do not attempt to clean up sewage without protective gear. Raw sewage contains dangerous pathogens. If you must enter the area, wear rubber boots, gloves, and a face mask at minimum.
- Open windows and doors for ventilation. Sewer gas contains hydrogen sulfide and methane, which are harmful to breathe in enclosed spaces.
- Keep children and pets away from the affected area. Block off the room or rooms where sewage is present.
- Call an emergency plumber who handles sewer line work. Not all plumbers carry the equipment for sewer line diagnosis and repair. Confirm they have a sewer camera and hydro-jetting or augering equipment.
- Pour chemical drain cleaner down the drain. It will not clear a main sewer blockage and can damage pipes or create a chemical hazard when mixed with sewage.
- Use any drains in the house until a plumber has cleared the line.
- Attempt to snake the main sewer line yourself. Main line snaking requires a heavy-duty machine, and incorrect use can damage the sewer pipe.
- Run a dehumidifier or fan before the sewage is professionally cleaned. This can spread contaminants through the air.
What to tell the plumber when you call: Which fixtures are backing up (one drain or multiple), whether you see sewage or just water, whether there are gurgling sounds from other drains, how long it has been occurring, and the age of your sewer line if known.
3. Gas Leak
A gas leak is the most dangerous plumbing emergency. Natural gas is highly flammable, and a buildup of gas in an enclosed space can cause an explosion. If you smell rotten eggs or sulfur near a gas water heater, stove, furnace, or gas line, treat it as a life-threatening emergency.
Do this right now:
- Do not flip any light switches, use appliances, or create any spark. Even a light switch can ignite gas in a confined space.
- Do not use your phone inside the house. Cell phones can theoretically create a small spark. Take your phone and leave.
- Leave the house immediately. Get everyone, including pets, out of the home. Do not stop to gather belongings.
- Call 911 from outside, at a safe distance from the house. At least 100 feet away is a reasonable distance.
- Call your gas utility company. They will send a technician to locate and stop the leak, usually at no charge.
- Call a licensed plumber with gas line certification after the utility has made the area safe. The plumber will handle the permanent repair.
- Try to locate the gas leak yourself. Leave detection to professionals with the right equipment.
- Turn off the gas valve yourself unless you know exactly where it is and can do so without using any electrical devices.
- Re-enter the house until the fire department or gas utility has confirmed it is safe.
- Light candles, smoke, or use any open flame near the suspected leak area.
What to tell the plumber when you call: Where you first smelled gas, which gas appliances are in the area (water heater, stove, furnace, dryer), the age of the gas lines if known, and whether the gas utility has already responded and shut off the supply.
Estimated repair cost: Gas line repair typically costs $150 to $800. Gas leak detection runs $100 to $300. See the full plumbing cost guide.
Call (844) 833-1846 for Emergency Service4. No Hot Water
A sudden loss of hot water is disruptive but typically not dangerous. The cause is usually a failed heating element, a tripped breaker, a burned-out pilot light, or a failing water heater that needs replacement. If the water heater is more than 10 years old, a complete failure is common.
Do this right now:
- Check the pilot light (gas heaters). Look through the viewing window on the front of the unit. If the flame is out, follow the relighting instructions printed on the heater.
- Check the circuit breaker (electric heaters). A tripped breaker is one of the most common causes. Reset it and wait 30 minutes to see if hot water returns.
- Check the thermostat setting. The thermostat may have been bumped or adjusted. The standard setting is 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Check for leaks at the base of the unit. A pool of water under the water heater indicates a tank failure. See the "Water Heater Leaking" section below.
- Consider the age of the unit. If the water heater is 10 to 15 years old, the issue is likely a failing unit that needs replacement rather than a simple repair.
- Relight the pilot light if you smell gas anywhere near the unit. Leave the area and call your gas company.
- Turn the thermostat past 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Higher settings increase the risk of scalding and accelerate tank sediment buildup.
- Ignore a leaking water heater. A small leak at the base means the tank is corroding and will eventually fail catastrophically.
What to tell the plumber when you call: The type of water heater (gas or electric, tank or tankless), the age of the unit, any error codes displayed (for tankless units), whether the pilot light is out, and whether there is water pooling around the base.
Estimated repair cost: Water heater repair for common issues costs $150 to $600. Full water heater replacement, including installation, ranges from $800 to $4,500 depending on the type and size of the unit. See the water heater repair cost guide and water heater installation cost guide for detailed pricing.
5. Overflowing Toilet
An overflowing toilet can dump gallons of water (and potentially waste) onto the bathroom floor in minutes. Most overflows are caused by a clog, a stuck flapper valve, or a faulty fill valve. Quick action can stop the overflow before it causes water damage to flooring and the ceiling below.
Do this right now:
- Remove the tank lid and push the flapper valve down. The flapper is the rubber disc at the bottom of the tank. Pushing it closed stops water from flowing into the bowl. The water in the tank is clean.
- Turn off the water supply valve behind the toilet. This is the small valve on the wall or floor behind the base of the toilet. Turn it clockwise until it stops.
- If the supply valve is stuck or not working, shut off the main water supply. Some older supply valves seize over time and will not turn.
- Wait for the bowl water level to drop, then try a flange plunger. A flange plunger (the type with a fold-out rubber flap) creates a better seal than a standard cup plunger. Push firmly and steadily 10 to 15 times before pulling up sharply.
- If the plunger does not clear the clog after several attempts, call a plumber. The obstruction may be deeper in the drain line.
- Flush the toilet again. A second flush with a clogged drain will cause more overflow.
- Pour chemical drain cleaners into the toilet. These products are ineffective on most toilet clogs and can damage porcelain and pipes.
- Ignore recurring overflows. Repeated clogs often indicate a partial blockage deeper in the drain or sewer line.
What to tell the plumber when you call: Whether the clog is in one toilet or affecting multiple fixtures, what was flushed (if known), whether a plunger made any progress, and whether this is a recurring problem.
Estimated repair cost: Toilet clog removal and repair typically costs $100 to $400. If the issue is in the main drain line rather than the toilet itself, expect to pay more for drain cleaning or snaking. See the full toilet repair cost guide.
6. Frozen Pipes
Frozen pipes are common when temperatures drop below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, especially in uninsulated areas like attics, crawl spaces, garages, and exterior walls. A frozen pipe that has not yet burst can often be thawed safely. A burst frozen pipe requires immediate action to prevent flooding.
Do this right now:
- Turn on the affected faucets. Open both hot and cold handles. Running water, even a trickle, helps melt ice in the pipe and relieves pressure.
- Apply gentle heat to the frozen section. Use a hair dryer, a space heater aimed at the pipe area, or warm towels wrapped around the pipe. Start at the faucet end and work backward toward the frozen section.
- Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls. This allows warm air from the house to reach the pipes.
- Keep the thermostat set to at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Maintain consistent heating throughout the house, including unoccupied rooms.
- If a frozen pipe has burst, shut off the main water supply immediately and call a plumber. Follow the burst pipe steps in section 1 above.
- Use a propane torch, blowtorch, or open flame to thaw pipes. This is a fire hazard and can damage pipes.
- Use a heat gun directly against the pipe. Concentrated heat can cause pipes to crack or joints to fail.
- Pour boiling water on frozen pipes. The rapid temperature change can crack both metal and plastic pipes.
What to tell the plumber when you call: Which faucets are not producing water, the location of the frozen pipes if known, the current temperature, whether any pipes have already burst, and whether you have access to the frozen area (crawl space, attic, or wall cavity).
Estimated repair cost: Professional pipe thawing costs $150 to $400. If a frozen pipe has burst, repair costs rise to $500 to $2,000 or more depending on the location and water damage. See the full pipe repair cost guide.
7. Water Heater Leaking
A leaking water heater can cause significant water damage, especially when the unit is in a finished basement or main-floor utility closet. Leaks from the top of the unit usually indicate a fixable issue (inlet/outlet connections or the pressure relief valve). Leaks from the bottom of the tank usually mean the tank itself is corroding and needs replacement.
Do this right now:
- Turn off the power source. For electric water heaters, turn off the dedicated breaker at the electrical panel. For gas water heaters, turn the gas control valve to "off."
- Turn off the cold water supply to the unit. The cold water inlet valve is typically on top of the water heater, on the right side. Turn it clockwise to close.
- Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the base of the tank. Run the hose to a floor drain, sump pump, or outside. Open the drain valve to reduce the water level and minimize leaking.
- If the leak is major and the supply valve is not stopping the flow, shut off the main water supply.
- Ignore a small puddle under the water heater. A small leak from the tank itself will only get worse over time.
- Attempt to repair a leaking tank. If the tank body is leaking (not a fitting or valve), the unit needs replacement.
- Drain a gas water heater without first turning off the gas. Heating an empty tank can damage the unit and create a safety hazard.
What to tell the plumber when you call: Where the leak is coming from (top, bottom, pressure relief valve, or fittings), the type of water heater (gas or electric, tank or tankless), the age and capacity of the unit, whether the leak is a drip or a steady flow, and whether you have shut off the power and water supply.
Estimated repair cost: Water heater repair for leaking fittings, valves, or elements costs $150 to $600. If the tank itself is leaking and the unit needs replacement, expect to pay $800 to $2,500 including installation. See the full water heater repair cost guide.
8. Main Water Line Break
A break in the main water line, the pipe that runs from the municipal supply to your house, can cause flooding in the yard, undermine the foundation, and leave the home without any water supply. Signs include a sudden drop in water pressure, unexplained wet areas in the yard, muddy or discolored water from faucets, and an unusually high water bill.
Do this right now:
- Shut off the water at the meter. The meter is usually near the street in a covered box. You may need a meter key (available at hardware stores for $10 to $20) to turn it off.
- Call your water utility company to confirm the break is on your side. If the break is between the meter and the street, the utility company is typically responsible for the repair. If the break is between the meter and the house, it is the homeowner's responsibility.
- Call a plumber with excavation capabilities. Main water line repair usually requires digging, and not all plumbers are equipped for this. Ask if they have trenchless repair options, which are less disruptive.
- Keep the area clear. Do not drive vehicles over the suspected break area, as this can cause further pipe damage or sinkholes.
- Try to dig up the main water line yourself. The line may be deeper than expected, and you risk hitting gas lines, electrical conduit, or communication cables.
- Ignore wet spots or soggy areas in the yard, especially if water pressure has dropped. These are early signs of a main line break.
- Assume the utility company will fix it. In most areas, the homeowner is responsible for the line from the meter to the house.
What to tell the plumber when you call: The location of wet areas in the yard, the pipe material if known (copper, galvanized, polyethylene), the approximate length of the run from the meter to the house, whether you have shut off the water at the meter, and any recent excavation or construction near the line.
Estimated repair cost: Main water line repair or replacement typically costs $1,500 to $5,000. Trenchless methods (pipe lining or pipe bursting) tend to cost more upfront but cause less damage to landscaping and driveways. See the full water line replacement cost guide.
9. Garbage Disposal Not Working
A jammed or non-functioning garbage disposal is inconvenient but rarely a true emergency. Most disposal issues can be resolved without a plumber, and those that do require professional help can safely wait until regular business hours.
Do this right now:
- Turn off the disposal at the wall switch. Make sure the unit is completely off before doing anything else.
- Check the reset button. Most garbage disposals have a small red or black reset button on the bottom of the unit. If it has popped out, press it back in and try the switch again.
- Use an Allen wrench to free a jam. Insert a 1/4-inch Allen wrench into the hex socket on the bottom center of the unit. Turn it back and forth to free the impellers from the obstruction.
- Check the circuit breaker. If the reset button and Allen wrench do not solve the issue, the breaker may have tripped.
- If none of these steps work, call a plumber during regular hours. Emergency rates are not justified for a disposal issue.
- Put your hand inside the disposal, even when it is switched off. Impellers are sharp, and the unit could activate unexpectedly.
- Pour chemical drain cleaner into the disposal. These products can damage the internal components and the drain pipe connections.
- Attempt electrical work if you are not comfortable with it. If the issue is electrical rather than mechanical, call a professional.
What to tell the plumber when you call: Whether the disposal hums but does not spin (jam), makes no sound at all (electrical issue), or leaks from the bottom (seal failure). Also note the brand, model, and age of the unit if possible.
Estimated repair cost: Garbage disposal repair costs $75 to $250 for most issues. If the unit needs replacement, expect to pay $150 to $500 for the unit plus installation. See the full garbage disposal repair cost guide.
10. Sump Pump Failure
A failed sump pump during a heavy rain event can lead to a flooded basement within hours. Sump pump failures are the leading cause of basement flooding in homes that have a sump system installed. Common causes include power outages, stuck float switches, burned-out motors, and blocked discharge pipes.
Do this right now:
- Check the power supply and circuit breaker. A tripped breaker or unplugged cord is the most common and simplest cause of sump pump failure. Sump pumps should always be on a dedicated circuit.
- Check the float switch. The float switch activates the pump when water rises. It may be stuck against the wall of the sump pit or tangled with the power cord. Manually lift the float to see if the pump starts.
- Pour a bucket of water into the sump pit to test. If the pump runs and moves the water out, the issue was the float switch or water level. If it does not run, the motor or switch may be burned out.
- Check the discharge pipe outside. The pipe that carries water away from the house may be frozen, clogged, or disconnected. Clear any obstructions.
- If the pump is dead and water is rising, call an emergency plumber. You may also want to use a wet/dry vacuum or portable pump to manage water while waiting.
- Enter a flooded basement if water is near electrical outlets, the breaker panel, or any appliances. Water and electricity are a lethal combination. Shut off the breaker for the basement from the main panel first.
- Ignore a sump pump that runs constantly. This usually indicates a stuck check valve, a failing pump, or a high water table that exceeds the pump's capacity.
- Assume a power outage will be brief. If you live in a flood-prone area, a battery backup sump pump is an essential safeguard.
What to tell the plumber when you call: The brand and age of the pump, whether it makes any sound, the current water level in the sump pit, whether the discharge pipe is clear, whether you have a battery backup, and how quickly the water level is rising.
Estimated repair cost: Sump pump repair or replacement typically costs $500 to $1,500, including the new pump and labor. Battery backup systems add $200 to $600. See the full plumbing cost guide for related pricing.
How to Shut Off Your Water
Knowing where your shut-off valves are located is the single most important thing a homeowner can do to limit plumbing damage. In most emergencies, shutting off the water within the first 60 seconds makes the difference between a minor repair and a major renovation.
Main Shut-Off Valve
The main shut-off valve controls all water entering the house. It is typically located near the water meter, which is usually found in one of these locations: the front of the house near the foundation, in the basement or crawl space where the main water line enters, inside a utility closet, or in the garage in warmer climates. The valve is either a wheel handle (gate valve) that you turn clockwise, or a lever-style ball valve that you turn 90 degrees perpendicular to the pipe. Ball valves are more reliable. If you have an older gate valve that is difficult to turn, consider having it replaced with a ball valve before an emergency occurs.
Individual Fixture Shut-Offs
Most plumbing fixtures have their own shut-off valves that allow you to stop water to that fixture without affecting the rest of the house. Look for small valves on the wall or floor in these locations:
- Under sinks: Two valves (hot and cold) on the wall behind the cabinet, connected by flexible supply lines to the faucet.
- Behind toilets: One valve on the wall or floor, usually on the left side when facing the toilet.
- Behind washing machines: Two valves (hot and cold) on the wall, connected by hoses to the machine. These hoses are a common failure point and should be replaced every 5 years.
Water Heater Shut-Off
The cold water supply valve is on top of the water heater, typically on the right side (looking at the front of the unit). This valve controls water flowing into the heater. Closing it stops the flow of water through the tank but does not drain it. For gas water heaters, the gas shut-off valve is located on the gas line near the bottom of the unit.
Outside Hose Bibs and Spigots
Outdoor faucets (hose bibs) usually have a separate shut-off valve inside the house. Look in the basement or crawl space for a valve on the pipe that leads to each exterior faucet. These should be shut off and the outdoor faucet opened to drain before winter to prevent frozen pipes.
Tag your main shut-off valve with a bright ribbon, zip tie, or label right now so anyone in the household can find it quickly during an emergency. Test the valve once a year to make sure it turns freely. A stuck valve during a burst pipe can add minutes of damage.
What to Expect When the Plumber Arrives
Knowing what to expect from an emergency plumber visit helps homeowners avoid overpaying and ensures the work is done properly. Here is how a typical emergency call plays out.
- Assessment first, then an estimate. A reputable plumber will assess the situation and give a verbal estimate before starting any work. If a plumber starts working without telling you the expected cost, ask them to stop and explain the charges.
- Emergency rates apply. Expect to pay 1.5x to 2x the standard hourly rate for after-hours, weekend, and holiday calls. A trip or service charge of $75 to $200 is standard on top of the repair cost. See the full emergency plumber cost guide for a detailed breakdown.
- Water may need to be off for the entire house. Even for a localized repair, the plumber may need to shut off the main water supply to ensure the affected pipe section is fully depressurized.
- Complex repairs may require multiple visits. The first visit may involve a temporary fix to stop the damage, with a permanent repair scheduled during regular hours when parts are available and conditions are better.
- Ask for a written receipt. The receipt should include a description of the work performed, parts used, any warranty on parts and labor, and the total cost breakdown. Keep this for insurance claims and future reference.
For help choosing the right plumber, see our guide on how to find a good plumber. Use the plumbing cost calculator to estimate what you should expect to pay for common repairs.
Preventing Plumbing Emergencies
Most plumbing emergencies are preventable. Regular maintenance and a few simple habits can dramatically reduce the risk of a burst pipe, sewer backup, or water heater failure.
- Know your shut-off valve locations. Every adult in the household should know where the main shut-off valve is and how to operate it. Tag it with a visible label.
- Schedule an annual plumbing inspection. A professional inspection costs $100 to $300 and can catch small issues, including corroding pipes, slow leaks, and failing water heater components, before they become emergencies.
- Insulate pipes before winter. Pipes in unheated areas (attics, crawl spaces, garages, exterior walls) should be wrapped with foam pipe insulation. This is a $20 to $50 DIY project that can prevent thousands in frozen pipe damage.
- Never pour grease down drains. Grease solidifies in pipes and is one of the leading causes of drain clogs and sewer backups. Pour cooled grease into a disposable container and throw it in the trash.
- Only flush toilet paper. Wipes (even those labeled "flushable"), feminine products, cotton balls, and paper towels do not break down in sewer lines and cause blockages.
- Replace washing machine hoses every 5 years. Rubber supply hoses deteriorate over time and are a common source of sudden, catastrophic leaks. Braided stainless steel hoses last longer and are more burst-resistant.
- Drain and flush the water heater annually. Sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank reduces efficiency and accelerates corrosion, shortening the life of the unit.
- Install water leak detection sensors. Basic battery-powered sensors cost $50 to $200 and sound an alarm when they detect water. Whole-home smart systems that automatically shut off the main water supply range from $500 to $1,500+ installed.
- Add a battery backup for your sump pump. If you live in a flood-prone area or have a finished basement, a battery backup sump pump ($200 to $600) can save you from a flooded basement during a power outage.
For a full breakdown of what routine plumbing maintenance costs, see our comprehensive plumbing cost guide. If you are unsure whether a plumbing issue needs professional attention, read our guide on when to call a plumber.
Frequently Asked Questions
A plumbing emergency is any situation that causes active water damage, poses a health or safety risk, or leaves a home without essential water service. Burst pipes, sewer backups, gas leaks, major flooding, and main water line breaks all qualify as emergencies that require immediate professional attention.
Emergency plumbing service typically costs $150 to $500 for common repairs, with hourly rates ranging from $150 to $300. After-hours, weekend, and holiday calls usually carry a surcharge of 1.5x to 2x the standard rate, plus a trip charge of $75 to $200. See the full emergency plumber cost guide.
Yes, if you have an active leak or burst pipe, shutting off the water supply should be your first action. This limits water damage and can reduce the overall repair cost. Use the fixture shut-off valve for localized leaks or the main shut-off valve for major issues.
Most homeowners insurance policies cover sudden and accidental plumbing failures, such as a burst pipe or water heater rupture. However, damage caused by gradual leaks, deferred maintenance, or sewer line issues is typically excluded. Review your policy or contact your insurer before filing a claim.
Most emergency plumbers arrive within 1 to 2 hours. If a plumber cannot respond within that window, call another company. For gas leaks, call 911 and your gas utility company first, as they typically respond faster than a private plumber.
You can wait if you have successfully stopped the water flow and the situation is stable. A dripping faucet, slow drain, or lack of hot water can safely wait for regular business hours. Active flooding, sewer backups, burst pipes, and gas leaks cannot wait.
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